Timkat eve

19 January 2008

Today is the eve of Timkat, which is Epiphany on the Ethiopian Orthodox calendar.  This is when celebrations begin rather than tomorrow.  While we didn’t know what to expect, we were advised to be at the Piazza at 1500.

That gave me time in the morning to do some sightseeing.  I thought of going to Fasilides Bath to see it before the Timkat crowd but with a sleep-in, it would have been a bit rushed.  So instead I went to Debre Berhan Selassie Church with Stephen, another visitor that we had been hanging out with.  This church is famous for the 104 cherubs painted on the ceiling.  Perhaps it is also infamous of “M” (prophet of another religion) being led to hell on a camel by the devil.

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The afternoon started with vigilante-like mobs scouring the streets.  Then people in white turned up clapping and lelelele-ing.  It turned out to be a riot of colour and noise with a procession from the palace through the Piazza to the ancient Fasilades Baths … an old royal swimming pool in an Angkor-like setting.

At the baths I was worried there would be a stampede.  It was crowded and there was a bit of jostling.  With only one small door in and out of the baths, all you need is a panic to trigger it off.

I returned to the Misrak Pension by minivan feeling on a high.  I thought it couldn’t get any better than what I had witnessed and safely decided I could ignore tomorrow morning’s ceremony.  But having dinner and drinks with Stephen later, we agreed we return to Fasilides Baths for the actual celebration of Timkat in the morning at 0530.

 

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