Back in Yemen

Arrival

My Emirates flight departed Hong Kong at 0035 after my full day of travel from Kuching and time in Hong Kong. The 1h30 connecting time in Dubai was sufficient for my continuing flight to Sana’a. Actually more than sufficient as I managed to even go to duty free to get a bottle of bubbly from Duty Free to bring into Yemen.

I was met at the airport by Marie (my host-to-be),  my new teacher Adnan and driver Assam.  We immediately called by my new school (YIAL, Yemen Institute of Arabic Language) to formalise my course arrangements.  Marie had accurately conveyed all my requirements to the teacher already so there wasn’t much to be done.  She’s even organised the teacher to do house-calls for the both of us … we never have to go to school!

My home for the month

Then off to my home for the next month!  Marie had rented the top two floors of an old Yemeni home, complete with modern bathrooms and a terrace overlooking allotments used for growing vegetables.  My room was very nicely set up already meaning I didn’t have to buy blankets, pillows etc.  She had actually bought me a blanket with a teddy bear … I will decline to give that bear a name in case I end up in jail as in the case of that English teacher in Sudan!  [Edit: That teacher named the bear Mohammad]

Unfortunately, due to a misunderstanding there is no spare room and Marie has moved into the mafraj or Yemeni penthouse lounge.  The view is to die for but it does mean some inconvenience for her … including moving out of the lounge when I have my classes twice a day.

There is a small price to pay for being in a historic building:

• Despite the modern bathrooms, the plumbing (as in Greece) aren’t set up for toilet paper.  As in some parts of Europe, we have a bin next to the bog.  I’ve taken up origami of used toilet paper before depositing them in the bin  –  for aesthetics and hygiene reasons.
• The hallways are very low … I cannot stand up straight.  And doors are about shoulder height.  Instead of walking around, there is a lot of shuffling around in a stooped fashion.
• At four floors up with no lifts, I have to plan my movements carefully (eg. to buy water, to let the teacher in etc).  And initially also have to cope with the altitude.

Our top flat is shared with a German girl.  A semi-separate lower flat is let out to two American girls.  There’s been a bit of bother because some of our flatmates like to sunbathe in the nude.  This is a problem with a male Yemeni (our teacher) spending so many hours in the house each day for lessons.

In fact, with the teacher coming, we have to announce his arrival to ensure that our flatmates are adequately covered (eg. legs, shoulders or arms if they feel the need).  That’s when they’re not sunning the privates.  In fact, in this part of the world, some houses are equipped with a door knocker for men and a separate one for women.  Residents can discern from the sound of the tap as to whether the visitor is male or female and cover-up appropriately.

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In other news …

I had to set myself up with cash upon arrival today. As with previous trips, it is either the ATM or change USD cash at the market. It’s always better to use the ATM and have the USD as a backup.

My PLUS ATM card worked at three banks that I tried today, namely Tadhamon International Islamic Bank, Saba Islamic Bank and Arab Bank. But as I wanted Yemeni Rials, it ended up only being the Tadhamon for me. Saba and Arab would only give me USD. I later realised that if I had used a Cirrus ATM card, those ATMs would have given me Yemeni. Strange.

Next, our friend Abdul Qadr, is getting married soon. He is the younger brother to my previous school’s principal. He hasn’t met the bride as it is an arranged marriage. We have been invited but will miss it as we will be in Ethiopia at that time.