Train to Cordoba
Today we move from Sevilla to Cordoba. The two cities are linked by train and we hailed a taxi to take us to the station. Getting to the impressive-looking station around 1015, we checked the schedule to find that the next slow train would be after 1300 (priced at EUR7, taking 90 mins) but a fast train was available at 1100 (at EUR19, taking 42 mins).
To avoid waiting around we decide on the fast train. We grabbed a bite before boarding the AVE (Alta Velocidad Espana) train. The ride was smooth and we couldn’t feel the speed it was doing, which was up to 280 km/h.
We arrived at Cordoba’s modern station and took a taxi to Hostal Bagdad, reaching there by midday. It was a little early for us to access our rooms. We stored our luggage and went to the tourist information and organised our excursion to Madinat Al-Zahra for tomorrow.
For lunch today, we dined at a local kind of place. It was unusual for us as each meal, accompanied by wine, consisted of two mains on the same plate. Eg. chicken and tortilla, or veal and omelette. So, that was not a complain but a description.
Sightseeing in Cordoba
Our first sight in Cordoba was the Mezquita, officially Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption. This was converted from a mosque of which groundbreaking took place in 785 AD. Major alterations were made after being Christianised and after an earthquake, so a significant portion of what we see is from around the 16th Century.
The centre of the complex was the relatively small cathedral and it is surrounded by the pillars and arches of the former mosque which is several times larger. The original mihrab still carried its Arabic inscription but unless one scrutinises it, it isn’t apparent that it is made from mosaic. An orange and palm garden sits to one side of the complex.
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- The bell tower dates from the late 16th and 17th centuries.
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- Around the Mezquita.
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- Hints of the Islamic architecture above the altar at Capilla de Villaviciosa.
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- Restored ceiling of the mosque.
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- Western dome of the maqsura (right of the mihrab).
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- The ceilings of the Renaissance nave and transept, completed by Juan de Ochoa in 1607.
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- The upper part of the choir, featuring a life-size representation of the Ascension.
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- The prayer hall of the mosque.
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- The prayer hall of the mosque.
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- The prayer hall of the mosque.
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- Monstrance for the exposition of the consecrated host, in Capilla Teresa.
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- The mihrab, with fine mosaic work.
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- Around the Mezquita.
Evening
After a rest in the hostal, we took a walk to the bus station to buy tickets for the bus to Granada tomorrow. Then we had a walk by the river and all around the old town.
From the river side, we also got to see a different angle of the Mezquita that wasn’t obscured by high walls (as it was on the other side).
Quite significant in the old town was the Plaza de la Corredera, an enclosed 17th Century public square which was the site of inquisition burnings and bullfights.
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- Around the old town.
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- Around the old town.
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- A different size of the Mezquita.
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- Around the old town.
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- Plaza de la Corredera.
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- Around the old town.
Dinner was another set meal with wine. This time we had salmorejos (similar to gazpacho) with local ham, salad, sardines and beautiful roasted egg plant (resembling a piece of steak). Dessert was a super-sweet huge white melon (with green skin on the outset) and a very rich cream caramel.
One realisation here (and in some other parts of Europe) is that the local Fanta isn’t highly (or artificially) coloured and contains a small portion of real fruit juice. Wheareas the version in New Zealand is bright orange. Mixed with sparkling water, it is quite refreshing in the hot weather without being too sweet.
Once again, we were pleased with our accommodation, Hostal El Reposo de Bagdad, which had plenty of character.
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- At our hostal in Cordoba.
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- At our hostal in Cordoba.
