Bonfim church

21 July 2019

Yesterday, we probably did more than what I had planned for.  The idea was that we’d have a lazy day after the longhaul flight.  So, this morning, we took it easy by lazing around all morning till a light lunch of burgers from nearby.

Joe, the pousada’s proprietor, had suggested that we make a trip to the Church of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim today.  My guide indicated that it opened at 1400 on a Sunday so we took a Uber there to arrive bang on that time.

The route took us through some rather poor areas with many homeless people.  I was pleased when the landscaped tidied up as we arrived at Bonfim.  The church didn’t look like it had just opened; perhaps it was already open for a while but only taking casual visitors after mass ended.

On the outside were lots of coloured ribbons (fitas) with which people make wishes.  The church was beautiful inside but quite interesting on the right hand side, in Sala dos Milagres (Room of Miracles), people left casts and photos of body parts that need to be cured.  We saw hands, feet, tummies etc.  But it appears no one suffers from breast cancer or erectile dysfunction!

With free internet in the church square  we ordered an Uber to take us back to Barra.  Like yesterday, the route back was much more direct.

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The weather at Barra was good enough for a swim.  The temperature was very pleasant for winter; Salvador is at the same latitude as Darwin in Australia.  Walking into the water, I felt the undertow was strong.  Then I realised the incoming surf was very strong too, knocking me over a few times.  That was part of the fun but possibly dangerous.  Many kids were in the water.  I suppose while the undertow could drag people out, the strong incoming surf brings them back.

We headed out for a walk in the evening.  I must say there were lots of people who seem to take fitness seriously.  And they’re not afraid to flaunt their bodies running or skating in just speedos. The weather turned suddenly and we had to take shelter at a food hall a share a beer.

When the weather dried out, we continued back to be struck by a much heavier downpour.  Fortunately we were able to take shelter on the outside of a building.

We had dinner of Moqueca (a fish stew with African influence) in one of the pousada’s restaurant.  It was delicious.  Flavourful with just the right amount of spice and herbs.  It was served with rice, pureed manioc and dried manioc flour.  I’ve been told the dish is uniquely Bahia.

 

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