Sunrise over the three volcanoes
I set the alarm clock for 0020 in time for a 0100 departure from Malang to Mount Bromo. The journey in our white Land Rover to Cemoro Lawang took about 2h30. Once there, we waited in the chilly highland air for a beaten up local Toyota Landcruiser to take us further up.
To get to the Penanjakan #2 Viewpoint, we walked for about half hour but we could have done it on horseback. As it was only 0415 we had an hour till sunrise … and the viewpoint to more-or-less to ourselves before the crowds arrived.
The sun rose from behind us illuminating Mounts Batok in the foreground, the puffing ashcloud from Bromo on the left and Semeru in the background … and the big crater ring that surrounds the whole area. We descended back down to Cemoro Lawang which is at an altitude closer to the crater bed which is the Sea of Sand. Over breakfast here, our guide suggested that it may not be possible to scale to the crater of Bromo today as it was puffing.
We then saw two very dirty Dutch girls, grey ash all over their faces, clothes and hair. They had just come down from the crater and highly recommended it so we decided to give it a go.
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- After starting at 0100, we see the sun rise at 0515 from behind us, illuminating three mountains: Batok (front), Bromo (ash cloud) and Semeru (background). The first two are contained within a giant crater which you see as the ridge in the picture.
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- Bromo lets off a puff of ash cloud that is illuminated by the rising sun.
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- Bromo lets off a puff of ash cloud that is illuminated by the rising sun.
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- With my Swiss travel companions on Mt Penanjakan #2 lookout.
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- Batok and the Sea of Sand in the foreground.
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- Vendors on Mt Penanjakan #2 lookout.
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- Mt Batok and the crater ring in the background.
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- 4WDs waiting to take their passengers back after sunrise.
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- Horses (and their owners) waiting to take their potential customers.
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- Nearby plateau to Mt Penanjakan.
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- View coming down from Mt Penanjakan.
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- Horses (and their owners) waiting to take their potential customers.
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- Walking back to our Land Rover … which broke down. English cars! The Japanese vans here seem to go on forever.
Climbing to Bromo crater
We drove down from Cemoro Lawang to the crater bed and walked across the Sea of Sand and slowly climbed Bromo. From Penanjakan, Bromo looked like just a hole in the ground but closeup it was quite an ascent.
The last bit to the crater had a staircase in place but it had been covered completely by volcanic ash. Villagers were there with shovels trying to clear it but it was a big job.
Walking up was a difficult as my foot would sink into the ash up to my thighs at times. Villagers were lovely with their encouragement … take it slowly, be careful etc.
While the crater wasn’t spectacular in its own right, it was amazing that we were on the rim of a live puffing crater … between major spurts … I guess the Dutch girls must have been there during a spurt which explains why they were so dirty.
Going back down was more difficult for me. Perhaps I have a slight fear of heights … or the possibility of sliding and tumbling down the whole way?
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- Mt Bromo lets off a fresh blast of ash cloud (closer view).
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- Mt Bromo lets off a fresh blast of ash cloud (closer view).
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- Mt Bromo lets off a fresh blast of ash cloud (closer view).
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- Mt Bromo lets off a fresh blast of ash cloud (closer view).
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- Vegetation killed by ash cloud.
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- We make our way up to the Bromo crater rim.
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- Horses for rent but we didn’t use them.
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- There are steps leading to the crater rim but they are buried deep in volcanic ash.
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- There are steps leading to the crater rim but they are buried deep in volcanic ash.
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- Looking into Bromo’s crater.
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- There are steps leading to the crater rim but they are buried deep in volcanic ash. Locals work hard to clear it.
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- Offerings to appease Bromo; locals here are mainly Hindus.
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- There are steps leading to the crater rim but they are buried deep in volcanic ash. Locals work hard to clear it.
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- Volcanic ash is like fine sand.
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- The Sea of Sand is the floor of the big crater that is home to Bromo and Batok volacanoes. It isn’t sand but volcanic ash.
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- Volcanic ash gets everywhere. My ankle looks fat from this angle … I’m like a Clydesdale horse.
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- Bromo lets off another blast as we leave.
The forgotten road
We emptied out our shoes of volcanic ash and set off at about 1000, bound for Ijen Plateau. Near Probolinggo, our English vehicle, the Land Rover broke down with some gearbox problem. Just as well we broke down outside a furniture shop as we were invited to rest and nap inside. That seems so weird … would that have happened in your country?!
To our surprise a backup vehicle arrived within one hour from nearby, rather than the company’s homebase back in Malang.
The road ahead hugged the northern coast of Java for a while and we crossed inland and uphill on some forgotten roads through majestic teak forests. You can tell that there was a road there before but it has completely disintegrated in parts. Strangely when you cross some district boundaries, the roads seem magically perfect again.
It was 1630 and nearly dark (yes, it’s like that in Java) when we arrived near Paltuding where we would spend the night. We were meant to go to a Kopi Luwak farm but we were all too shattered. That’s the coffee that’s processed through the gut of the civet cat. In childish French vocabulary, one could call it caca-cafe (shit coffee).
Our Land Rover conveniently breaks down in front of a furniture shop so we go in for a rest.