Disembarking the Felucca

I woke around 0700 again and was offered a slightly better breakfast today as Ahmad was onboard. Today I had an omelette as well as bread, jam, cheese and tea.

Ziggy told me that there had been a slight change in plan. Rather than drop me near Edfu where I’d have to take a car to the station, I’d be dropped off just across the river (from the current location) where I’d take a car to the train which would take me to Edfu.

I had played on my phone last night, using Google Maps and knew that I wasn’t that near to Edfu but somewhere in between there and Kom Ombo. I estimated that I’d have a 30 minute train ride to Edfu, which was equivalent to 5h less sailing for Ziggy.

I tried negotiating the price down but he wouldn’t budge. He said he was doing it for my safety as it wasn’t safe to be taking a car at the place near Edfu. After considering some alternatives, I agreed to pay him the agreed price provided he paid for my car to the station which cost EGP40.

I reckon what I had was still a good deal for me. In fact, I think that’s the reason he was delivering a shorter product. I had had enough of it anyway and if it means I lose 5h sailing in exchange for 30 minutes more on the train, so be it.

I was dropped at the nearby station (possibly Al Kajuj) and after a short wait I was on the train bound for Luxor. I couldn’t be bothered stopping in Edfu with luggage in tow to go to the temple. I can always backtrack as the distance isn’t that great.

About 1h45 later, a little after 1000, I was in Luxor where it was touts galore. I managed to walk to my hotel without getting too lost and was pleased to find a nice double bed with white linen. Nice to have my comfort once in a while.

It was only late morning. I rested briefly and grabbed lunch, then rested some more. In the late afternoon, I walked across the road to the Luxor Temple then the Corniche.

The town and the Corniche is nothing like I remember from 22 years ago. There are even buildings on the West Bank now!

I wandered around town and took a supercheap horsecart ride to the Karnak Temple just to explore; many of the drivers and their horses are suffering as they aren’t getting any customers.

I wasn’t so lucky on the way back.  I took a ride out of pity for a driver who refused to take “No” for an answer.  He offered a really low price but didn’t honour it at the end, getting really aggressive. I had planned on giving him more than the price he offered but he wanted something ridiculous. I said that people like him spoil Egypt.