Monkeys & Sulawesi

13 September 2019

Proboscis Monkeys

Breakfast at the Gajah Mada was pretty good local food with two generous big fish (two share) and lots of meaty chicken curry.  I left the hotel around 0800 for the Mangrove and Proboscis Conservation Area about 5+ minutes away by foot.  The weather was still pleasant and not too hot.

Speaking in Indonesian, I managed to get in unquestioned for the local price of IDR5K instead of IDR50K!

The elevated walkway took me through the mangrove forest, something that I’m not used to seeing.  I normally see mangrove scrub whereas this had tall trees.  Not far away was a platform where lots of bananas had been put out.  A group of Proboscis Monkeys (Bekantan in Indonesian, Orang Belanda or Dutch Man in Malay) were feasting on them.

Surprisingly, they weren’t aggressive like monkeys at Batu Caves or Monkey Forest, possibly because they had food in front of them.

I also saw a salamander (newt) and a monitor lizard.  As I explored further I realised the walkway further along was in bad shape, so I went back and explored other directions briefly before calling it quits.

I was back in the hotel about 45 mins having set off.  I had allowed 1h30 for the entire excursion, thinking that I’d then have about 45 mins to get ready and check-out.

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Flying to Balikpapan

The hotel had a complimentary transfer to the airport, except for the IDR5K fee they have to pay to drive into the airport.  This was well-appreciated.

I used the landside lounge where there was a decent selection of food available, considering this was a small airport.  But the quality of raw ingredients and presentation was consistent with the locale.

On board Lion Air’s Boeing 737-900ER I could see the yellow crop-duster style aeroplane with a Pertamina truck next to it.  These are the lifeline to rural places like Long Bawan which have no road access for fuel supply, requiring fuel to be flown in many times a day.

The jet took me from Tarakan to Balikpapan swiftly in 1h05, departing at 1255.  I was seated by the non-window exit rear of the wing, door 4L I guess.  The 737 is now all grown up, accommodating 200+ passengers and having 10 exits just like the main deck of a 747!  I noticed the seatbelt had a built-in airbag.

Balikpapan transit

Balikpapan’s international airport at Sepinggan is possibly the most aesthetically pleasing airport on the world’s third largest island. I was very impressed when I was here last but didn’t think of taking any pictures.

It serves Balikpapan (one of the largest cities in Borneo) and to some extent Samarinda (Borneo’s largest city which has a small airport). Indonesia recently announced that its new capital will be between the two cities.

It employs clever use of natural light and ventilation. The arrival corridor is vented to bring in cool air; it isn’t as hot and humid as Malaysian Borneo it seems.

The design incorporates many elements of Borneo design. Eg. friezes, murals and photographs of people, flora and fauna. Don’t mess with these beauties; they’re carrying daggers.

The design is open and spacious with lots of natural light and not too much direct sun (which would raise the temperature).

It has lots of white and kept very clean. Sadly the workmanship and finish isn’t very good in parts.

There were two lounges available for my use.  The first was quite full being small and the fare looked quite limited.  The Blue Sky lounge (with a free cart ride to its remote location) proved to be a good choice with lots of delicious local food.  I had lots of stirfry vege and fresh fruit; something I had been deprived of lately.

Interestingly there was a Spanish-registered Boeing 747, presumably operating Haj & Umroh (Indonesian spelling) services from Balikpapan.  Also, I noticed flight cancellations to/from Tarakan then Berau due to weather.  It just shows  how unreliable flying in propeller planes can be in this part of the world.

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Onwards to Palu in Sulawesi

My Sriwijaya B737-800 departed on time at 1825.  The inflight announcement included an invitation for a quiet moment of prayer for a safe flight in one’s respective religion.  It was less than half full and took only 40 minutes rather than the 1h scheduled time.  It was an exorbitant fixed price of IDR100K to the Pavilion Hotel, compared to what was indicated on Grab at IDR30K, except that the latter wasn’t allowed to enter the airport.

On the 20 minute ride to the hotel, I saw no earthquake damage from less than a year ago.  The cit seemed like a really happening place with lots of local food, a few modern cafes, plenty of cellphone shops.  It probably indicates that locals have more money to spend here than in Tarakan.

Considering I had a “nothing” day, I was really tired.  I ate the sweet roll given to me on the second flight and retired around 2100.

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