Exploring & Airline Ticketing
After breakfast, I took a walk around the Sule Pagoda neighbourhood. There were a few churches, mosques and a synagogue tucked between the many old concrete multi-storey blocks. More men wear pants now than during my previous visit, when the longyi (sarong). It is still common for women and children (and some men) to put thinaka (ground wood powder) on their faces (apparently cool and good for the skin).
Soon it was time for me to go to the Air Mandalay office to collect my domestic air tickets which I had ordered through the internet (webform online booking). I didn’t want to leave it too late in case the office was crowded or if there were hiccups. I taxied over and turned out to be the only customer. Everything was very efficient and there were no surprises.
Tickets were written by hand on good old-fashioned paper ticket-stock and the inventory (seats) were held in Excel!
Back in my Sule Pagoda neighbourhood, I explored a bit more. It is very Indian and Indian-Muslim where I am. Wandering a bit further down as far as 21st street, it turned a bit more Chinese. I made it to the markets and found that it was closed (apparently a Chinese festival).
A chicken briyani and banana lassi seemed timely as it was nearly midday.
After a rest, I took a taxi out to the Chaukhtatgyi Reclining Buddha. This is a relatively new statue by historical terms; perhaps less than 50 years old. But it is impressive due to the number of gems that are encrusted into it.
Then I walked across the road up to the Ngahtatgyi Sitting Buddha set against an intricately carved wooden backdrop. I’m going to take it easy … I remember being absolutely templed-out and Buddha’ed out last time.
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- Waking up to the Sule Pagoda just outside my hotel.
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- Hindu temple in the neighbourhood.
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- Morning markets in Yangon.
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- Morning markets in Yangon.
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- Shophouses in the vicinity.
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- Shophouses in the vicinity.
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- Barber shop in the vicinity.
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- Chaukhtatgyi Reclining Buddha.
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- Chaukhtatgyi Reclining Buddha.
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- Ngahtatgyi Sitting Buddha.
Shwedagon Pagoda
From there I took a taxi to the Shwedagon Pagoda. The driver dropped me off at the Northern entrance and I made my way in somehow escaping the USD5 ticket charge. It’s not like there was a ticket desk which I walked past pretending I was local. And besides, I had these above-knee shorts on which I thought would have warranted a loaner longyi, to preserve decency at a sacred site.
Perhaps this wasn’t the usual entrance for tourists but more for local pilgrims. I only realised when walking around that foreigners all had a green sticker on them to indicate payment.
Shwedagon is Myanmar’s most famous pagoda; words can’t describe its grandeur. The gold on it looks like it has been riveted on tile-by-tile; as opposed to gold-leaf on the lesser stupas and mere gold paint on some of the garnishes. The current form (322 feet high) dates from around 1769 whereas the core may be about 2500 years old.
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- Entrance where I was dropped off for the Shwedagon Pagoda.
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- My first glimpse of Shwedagon this trip.
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- Around the Shwedagon complex.
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- Around the Shwedagon complex.
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- Monks circum-abulating the Shwedagon complex.
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- Pouring water on Buddha.
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- Main stupa of Shwedagon. The gold seems to be made of tiles riveted on.
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- Main stupa of Shwedagon. The gold seems to be made of tiles riveted on.
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- The gold seems to be made of tiles riveted on.
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- Cleaning brigade: look carefully at the whole row of ladies with brooms.
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- Resting and waiting for the sun to set.
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- Some of the minor stupas at Shwedagon.
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- Crowning glory of Shwedagon pagoda.
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- Unfortunately many of the minor pagodas are covered in mat, pending regilding.
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- Some of the minor stupas at Shwedagon.
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- Young monks.
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- Inside one of the shrines.
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- Complex and intricate carvings decorate the roof around the pagoda’s complex.
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- The multi-tiered roofs glitter in the evening light.
Being winter, it was very pleasant to stroll around (clockwise, as one should at any Buddhist site). In fact I did it five times, watching the subtle changes in the light until night fell. This is such a contrast to my previous visit when it was stinking hot and the marble floor was very unkind to the soles.
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- Shwedagon in the evening.
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- Shwedagon in the evening.
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- Shwedagon by night.
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- Shwedagon by night.
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- Shwedagon by night.
As my afternoon’s fluid intake started to fill my bladder, the cool night air and cold marble floor wasn’t so welcome any more. There wasn’t a toilet insight and I didn’t like the thought of going into one bare-footed (a requirement in the pagoda area).
I taxied back to the hotel to relieve myself before having a Myanmar dinner of pork curry, oily fish floss, vegetables, salad and soup. Together with rice, this came to USD5 which I thought was quite pricey compared to Malaysia or Singapore (especially when one compares the income gap). Tourist pricing again, perhaps? Or maybe people in Malaysia and Singapore are far too lucky when it comes to eating out.