Friendship Highway

Friendship Highway

Today we move to Xigaze or Shigatse. Things went more smoothly at breakfast. We weren’t charged today but instead were given a refund. They were very gracious about it. I made an egg sandwich with the bread roll and added a bit of soya sauce for flavour.

Once in the Landcruiser, we picked up Denise from her more upmarket hotel and headed out of town in the direction of the airport. We crossed the river and continued to Yamdrok Tso, a beautiful lake which now feeds the hydro station. Such stations supply electricity to people who previously didn’t have it.

The road we are on today is known as the Friendship Highway and it links Lhasa to Zhangmu in Nepal. Parts of it was very windy, rough and dusty and it freaked Denise out at times. We stopped for a lovely picnic lunch by a dryish river, consisting of a delicious chicken drumstick, pickles, cake, red bean bun, cucumber and peanuts.

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: Leaving Lhasa.

: Countryside outside Lhasa.

: Countryside outside Lhasa.

: Countryside outside Lhasa.

: Countryside outside Lhasa.

: Countryside outside Lhasa.

: On the Friendship Highway.

: The dazzling Yamdrok Tso (4488m) viewed from the summit of the Kamba La (4794m).

: The dazzling Yamdrok Tso (4488m) viewed from the summit of the Kamba La (4794m).

: The dazzling Yamdrok Tso (4488m) viewed from the summit of the Kamba La (4794m).

: At Kamba La (4794m).

: Yamdrok Tso in the background.

: Near Kamba La (4794m).

: Yamdrok Tso.

: Village near Kamba La (4794m).

: Yamdrok Tso.

: Picnic lunch by a river.

The second highest was Kamba La (Pass) at 4794m or 15,700 ft, from which we caught good views of Yamdrok Tso. The highest point on our drive today, which came afterwards, was Karo La (Pass) at 5045m or 16,500 ft. We couldn’t have picked a brighter day for this drive. The strong sun beautifully lit the glaciers, distant mountains, lakes and the patchwork of olive, brown and coral coloured rocks.

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: Continuing on the Friendship Highway.

: Scenery on the Friendship Highway.

: Scenery on the Friendship Highway.

: The guide says this is possibly the highest public toilet in the world.

: On the Friendship Highway.

: Near Karo La (5045m).

: Near Karo La (5045m).

: Near Karo La (5045m).

: Scenery on the Friendship Highway.

: Scenery on the Friendship Highway.

: Scenery on the Friendship Highway.

Gyantse stop

We stopped at Gyantse’s Pelkor Chode monastery. This monastery is known for its large Kumbum (multistoreyed chapel) which to my untrained eye looks like a cross between a stupa and a pagoda. I think it was possible to go to the top of the Kumbum but my inclination was rather low to do anything that involved exertion. Remember, we are at high altitude.

The backdrop of the monastery was the impressive Gyantse Dzong or fort. That wasn’t available to us for a visit. Gyantse is often referred to by the Chinese government as the “Hero City” because of the determined resistance of the Tibetans against far superior forces during the British expedition to Tibet of 1903 and 1904.

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: Gyantse Dzong from the monastery.

: At Pelkor Chode Monastery.

: Kumbum at Pelkor Chode Monastery.

: Gyantse Dzong.

: Gyantse Dzong from a nearby vilage.

At Xigaze

We continued to Xigaze on a straight new road. We checked into the Holy Land Hotel which also came with a couple of aliases namely Shengkang Hotel and Saint Recover Hotel. Our room was newish, very nice and bright. The bathroom was badly put together though. But Denise thought the hotel was appalling, so I’m guessing her hotel in Lhasa must be several notches above ours. The poor thing has to slum it in the same hotel as us tonight.

Dinner was really up my alley with bobis (chapatis), aloo prata, garlic chicken and chicken curry. It was one of the nicest meals we’ve had this trip; the other one being today’s picnic lunch.