Today I will travel from Khiva to Kokand, in the opposite end of the country. Not quite the entire length of the country but somewhat.
My hotel-arranged vehicle was waiting as I had a light breakfast. There was little traffic between Khiva and Urgench airport and my I arrived in 40 minutes. The airport is a little like the train stations. Vehicles can’t drive up to it but instead, there is a gatehouse where one is nominally checked before walking to the terminal building for another check.
With 90 minutes before departure, check-in opened just as I arrived. It was quick and easy. We weren’t allowed airside until a little later. The close-off at many domestic airports in Uzbekistan is only 20 minutes before flight! I like small efficient airports like these!
The 1h30 flight went quickly seated in the starboard exit row (strange they had seats in the full-size exits) next to the minister responsible for the textile industry, Mr Ilkhom (Minister of Light Industry). We had a chat and it turns out that the Indonesians have a textile venture in Fergana, which explains the familiar “Ikat” pattern and name!
A sandwich, bottled water and hot drink was served on the flight. I kept my sandwich (and also Ilkhom’s) for the upcoming taxi ride. Upon arrival, we were bussed to the opposite side of the runway to the domestic arrival building.
I exited to some taxi drivers who wanted UZS50,000 to Kuylyuk Bazaar where I would catch my shared taxi to Kokand. I bargained it down to UZS30,000. The ride took about 15 minutes and the actual taxi station was beyond the Bazaar.
I hopped off and was met by several drivers. I accepted a ride for USD10 / UZS80,000. It seemed a little high but I had trouble bargaining it down. I rationalised it with a comparison against my ride from Bukhara to Khiva. It was a 10 minute wait before we got our 4th passenger so we could set off.
The trip was dead straight for about an hour once we left Tashkent. I had my passport and registration checked before the road became windy for about 2 hours before it became straight again. Through the windy bits, I did notice some military presence. This part of the country had some issues with extremism in its history.
The valley in Fergana Valley was hard to spot. It is quite wide and while it doesn’t look to dusty, it must be enough to reduce visibility so that the snowy peaks aren’t evident.
Upon arrival 3h30 later at the Istiqlol Hotel, the Russian receptionist asked how much I had paid for my ride. I sheepishly said UZS60,000 (USD7.50; I didn’t want to look stupid paying UZS80,000). She said it should have been around UZS30,000 but max UZS40,000. She asked if I had the driver’s number and she was going to have a “fight” with them. “Stupid village people” she said.
Twenty-five years ago, I would have been angry. But having aged past half a century, I’m not too bothered. Who am I going to give my money to when I die. The Uzbek taxi driver is poorer than any of the people I may choose to leave my money to.
The hotel had received some last minute bookings and they had run out of single rooms. The put me in a family room but I’d have to shift tomorrow. After a rest, I went for a walk and changed some money too, hopefully to last the rest of my stay in Uzbekistan with minimal leftover.
Anyway, what am I doing in Kokand? Sure it has some minor sights. Well, I thought it would be less of a journey by plane and taxi to here compared to Fergana which was another 1h30 further.
Besides, if I continued to Fergana, I’d end up staying too many days there to fit in the Sunday market before backtracking to Kokand and then Tajikistan.
I had a simple dinner of noodles with some meat and veges in a little soup. It was my first proper meal of the day. I savoured it with the green cut chillis on the side. Looking through the menu, it’s quite funny to see wonton soup (whatever they’re called here) side-by-side with kebabs. And they’re all local food. We’re right at the crossroads of cultures here!