Change of plan

25 September 2005

Above:   Back at the Naderi Hotel in Tehran; the lobby area.

Leaving early

After breakfast, I asked the hotel man about making an external phone call. I didn’t think he understood me but shortly after he had patched me through correctly to Iran Air. The airline said it wasn’t a problem to have me fly to Tehran today, a day earlier.

I had done everything I wanted here in Rasht and the surrounding area. The sights further afield are a little too far for a day trip. It didn’t have the same cultural depth that Yazd had. Sometimes a change of plan is the best thing to do!  More like a fine-tune.

I took a savari to the airline and had my flight change effected immediately. I returned to my room to pack and rested before checking out at 1200.

[Edit: In the days, months and years that came, Iranians that I met all think that I’m mad for leaving Rasht early. They all love the green and the humidity. I grew up with humidity and I don’t like it! It’s a bit like people in Oman loving the wet season and people from the Gulf flocking there to enjoy it too. ]

Since I had time to kill, I spent about 3.5h (including searching for a job) at the internet café before searching for some tea. The ice-cream and cake shop didn’t do tea, but the nice man insisted on giving me an apple foldover for free. I did find my cuppa later but it would have been nice to have the pastry with the tea at the same time!

Flying back to Tehran

I took a taxi to the airport, saying “furudgah” (airport) to the driver. He took me to the bus station. When we did arrive at the airport, he asked for IRR30000. I insisted it should have been only IRR20000 but he was cool with that. But he did insist that I never said “furudgah”. Ah well.

Check-in at Rasht airport opened 55 min before departure. The airport was so small that I didn’t think there was a departure lounge. Because there is security check as one enters the terminal building, I thought there was no other area. As a result, I was the last to board. The flight was full again except for 1AB where the purser sat.

The purser didn’t help with the meal service on the short flight. He sat at the back in the double jump-seat reading the newspaper and didn’t even answer the phone when the flight attendant needed something.

At Tehran’s Mehrabad Airport, the bus rides on the apron are good for spotting ancient aeroplanes. With the not-so-ancient Fokker 100, I noticed that there were two different types of cargo doors within the fleet. Some open out upwards while some drop down towards the ground.

Outside the terminal, they had run out of taxis at the official taxi rank. Rather than wait, I took a supposedly metered taxi but it wasn’t. I ensured I hopped out with all my bags before paying in case there was a problem.

I gave the driver IRR20K then IRR30K. He gestured “5” and I thought he wanted IRR50K which would be too much. I gave him a total of IRR40K and walked off. He followed me into the Naderi Hotel. At that time I thought he wanted a commission for bringing me here which would result in my rate being inflated.

But nope, he only wanted to give me IRR5K change, making my total ride IRR35K. This is Iran and people are more honest than what I give them credit for some times. I’ve been a little hardened by travel in other countries.

Armenian Club

I decided on having dinner at the Armenian Club. The walk there along Jomhouri Islami Ave was busy at this time with lots of lights. It’s the place to come for buying big TVs, stereos and other household electronics.

At the Armenian Club women had no scarves on. There were some with bareback dresses. It was a lovely garden setting with an Eastern European or Turkish feel. I sat with Paul, a Dutch guy going overland to Xinjiang and Yunnan. I had a delicious fry up of chicken schnitzel, soggy chips served up with cauliflower and okra.

After dinner, the convenience shops were closed and I missed out on buying water. I found my room a little noisy facing the main street. It was bearable but I’ll try to change for tomorrow.

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