South Asia

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Hong Kong of the Indian Ocean

We got our boarding passes an hour prior to departure; we were seated in the same noisy area as our two previous Emirates Boeing 777-300ER flights. We were fortunate again to have a spare seat to be shared between us. Due to a different configuration, there was a wall immediately behind us which blocked off […]

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Dakshinkali

After breakfast, we walked out of the old city to a taxi stand in order to have better competition and bargaining power for our ride to Dakshinkali. We managed to get a price slightly lower than that asked for by the hotel’s taxi driver. The ride took about 45 minutes. Once we left the valley, […]

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Durbar Square after the quake

After five nights in Kathmandu, we still hadn’t walked around Durbar Square yet. The weather was dull but dry so we made our way there after dropping laundry off (NPR50 per kg) and having breakfast. The destruction at Durbar Square was really bad. Key stupas are gone; the wooden structures have fallen leaving leaving behind […]

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Patan (aka Lalitpur)

Having experienced a taste of the monsoon yesterday afternoon, we decided to repeat our early start in case the afternoon was wet and gloomy. We taxied to Patan (Lalitpur) which we didn’t visit last time. The taxi dropped us at the north end of Durbar square and where the ticket kiosk wasn’t (it just happened […]

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Cremation pyres and a big stupa

We set the alarm for 0615 and got going early for Pashupatinath, which we reached by taxi. We got dropped off before the stalls of trinkets and flowers which were aimed mainly at local devotees. We walked to the main temple area into which we weren’t admissible (but we knew that). We found our way […]

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Bhaktapur & Swayambunath

We woke at 0630 and were slow to get ourselves ready. After yesterday’s slow service at breakfast in the hotel, we decided to eat out. We found a garden courtyard not far away which served up the morning spread slightly more promptly. Nevertheless it was about 0830 by the time we set off for Bhaktapur. […]

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Assessing the damage by daylight

Breakfast in the hotel ground-floor courtyard was painfully slow. We walked to Thamel thereafter. The shops were a mix of hiking apparel/gear, souvenirs and cafes. During the walk, we saw a few of vacant lots with signs of destruction. All but one could have been interpreted as normal construction or demolition in a third world […]

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Preponed travel

We woke early to pack and tidy up the apartment before heading to see Mum at 0915 to discuss some family matters before my brother took us to the airport at 0945. AirAsia’s bagdrop was quick and painless today and we managed to get some time and a laksa in the lounge. Our flight to […]

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Historic Old Goa

After doing a yoga class next door, I checked out of my hut and had breakfast. I found a taxi for INR700 to take me to my hotel in Panaji, which took about an hour. I managed to get straight into my room at the Casa Paradiso even though it was before the official check-in […]

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Moving down the coast a little

Today I finished my five day Iyengar yoga course. After lunching and farewelling my coursemates, my guesthouse owner biked me to Mandrem, a quieter village about 10 minutes south of Arambol. It lacks the colourful people that make up Arambol. It is so quiet and laid back it makes Arambol feel like a town rather […]

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