Evening processions at San Fernando
At about 1700, I took the jeepney back to San Fernando by myself (the Poles had moved on). I saw a few beautiful floats along the way. In the Cathedral courtyard, there were a small but growing number. Close to 1800, the courtyard was full and it was a glorious sight when they were illuminated for the procession.
The procession began fairly promptly at 1800. One-by-one, each float exited the courtyard. It was a relatively silent affair except for the sound of the diesel generators. In between and alongside were people carrying candles.
I didn’t follow the procession. I gathered that they would return and went for dinner at Chowking. I wasn’t too fussed about seeing the procession come back. But where I had to wait for my return jeepney, I saw the glimmer of their lights. It was good to see them a second time even though I had had enough and they were holding up my jeepney!
The traffic followed closely behind the last float. It was quite a chaotic scene with many jeepneys all making a U-turn and boarding at the same time.
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- St Peter I presume, holding the keys to heaven.
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- Christ bearing the cross.
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- The Crowning with Thorns.
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- Our Mother of Anguish.
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- Mater Dolorosa, our Lady of Sorrows.
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- Entombment of Christ.
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- The Crowning with Thorns.
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- St Mary Magdalene.
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- The Crucifixion.
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- The procession begins.
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- This is my favourite one.
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- St Mary Magdalene.
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- Not sure the name of this one.
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- Body of Christ, in a glass case.
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- The crowd was huge but orderly.
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- It was quite a sight with the large number of floats.
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- This is my favourite one.
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- It was quite a sight with the large number of floats.
Closing note and other observations
I had been an awesome day watching the crucifixions and the processions. It was an insight into the deep religious fervour that is now unseen in many Western countries which were once populated with practicing Christian (rather than just celebrate Christmas as a commercial event).
One interesting observation in San Fernando is that a disproportionate proportion of the shops and traders were Muslim. Maybe they’re from the south of the country. Perhaps it is a case of minorities trying harder than the rest to get ahead.
To me, the Philippines feels like a blend of Latin America and Malaysia/Indonesia. Really, native South Americans aren’t too different from the people of SE Asia if you’re able to strip away the Spanish influence (in South America and Philippines) and the Islamic influence (in Malaysia / Indonesia). In fact, ditto for North American natives; my Malaysian friends get mistaken as Native Americans! Many Westerners can’t see the similarity but I certainly can.
Tips for catching the Crucifixion & processions at San Fernando
- Stay at SOGO Hotel at SM City Pampanga and also near to Robinsons Starmills. Simple, handy, clean but windowless hotel specialising in people who want to have sex outside of their crowded homes. But there are families and tourists too.
- Don’t ask me how you get here from Manila but there should be plenty of buses. I flew into Clark and took a taxi (PHP1100).
- On Good Friday, wear something dark so you don’t ruin your white clothes. You might get spots of blood on you from the whips.
- Bring plenty of water (but you can buy more). Plenty of sunblock and a hat.
- I reckon you can leave the hotel about 0930 for the Metropolitan Cathedral in San Fernando to watch the cross-bearers and whippers. Take a jeepney (PHP8) from across the road from the hotel. It will be marked Palengke. Pay attention to the markings on the side so you can more easily identify the right jeepney for the return journey (I didn’t so I can’t tell you).
- When you’ve had enough watching the cross-bearers and whippers in the Cathedral forecourt, go inside. In the chapel to the left, you’ll be given a ball of cotton to Christ’s feet so you can kiss them.
- Ask carefully about timings as they may vary each year. For us, we left around 1030 by foot for Santa Lucia for their crucifixion at 1100. Ask for directions or take a tricycle.
- Once done, leave promptly and walk to San Pedro Cutud as their crucifixion is at 1200. Don’t panic if you run into a crowd as that’s probably the procession. The crucifixion was late here.
- Once done, head back to the hotel for a cold shower and a couple of hours rest.
- At around 1720, take the tricycle back to the Cathedral. Have a look around the various floats that will congregate. Around 1800, they will be lit up and begin their procession. You can follow them briefly but it isn’t necessary to go too far.
- Grab a leisurely dinner at Chowking. Once you’ve filled up, the procession may be on its way back walking past Chowking. It is better to stand on the other side of the road where the jeepneys pick up passengers.
- Once the procession has past, the jeepneys will follow and take you back! What an awesome day you would have had!