Aleppo Citadel

6 November 2025

Aleppo Citadel

After breakfast at the hotel, I packed up but kept my room, and headed out to visit the Citadel.  Getting there at 0855, I had to wait till 0910 before visitors were let in.

I walked up the steps to the first gate-tower and then into the second tower which led into the citadel.  The wide stairway curved around up into the open area of the citadel.

There were more viewing platforms on the south side of the citadel wall, perhaps because it overlooked the main part of the city where the souqs were.  Naturally, I was drawn in that direction for my initial exploration.

Over the course of an hour, I walked around the entire length of the wall (subject to obstructions), repeated a little and also explored the centre which included an amphitheatre.

There had been some restoration and reconstruction to remedy earthquake and war damage.

I got back to the hotel after 1030 and checked out around 1100, way before the cut-off of 1200.

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Going to Hama

I was told that there are shared taxis from nearby Bab Antakya to Homs, and I can hop off as it passes the edge of Hama, where I’m headed.

It was only a few minutes walk through the souq to Bab Antakya, where I could only find a big bus bound for Homs.  No shared taxis or even vans.

I braced myself for a long wait but wondered if I should take a taxi to another station where there would be service taxis.  With no knowledge of another station, I had to rely on the taxi driver to take me to the best place, with no guarantee of success.

I decided to wait it out and we got the bus finally set off about 1150 with about three-quarter load.  We collected and dropped off people along the way.

Along the way, we saw many bombed-out buildings.  Amongst them were half-complete buildings that were also bombed out.  I’m guessing that buildings under construction were good hideouts for the rebels, making them targets for Assad’s regime.

Frustratingly, the bus stopped for a break about 20 mins away from Hama.  It was only a 15 min break but the long wait for the bus at the station had already worn out my quota of patience for the day.

I hopped out of the bus around 1400 and caught a taxi to the Riad Hotel near Hama’s clock tower.  The ride cost more than I had expected but in Syria, I generally accept prices without question because people are quite honest.  And any Syrian rip-off prices won’t break the bank.

Riad Hotel and Hama

I arrived at the Riad Hotel around 1420 and was welcomed by Abdullah and the boss Riad.  I had stayed here in 2002, 2004 and 2010.

Because Abdullah speaks perfect English and there were always other travellers staying, it was the perfect base for shared rides to most corners of Syria.

We had a good catch up before I headed out for a falafel sandwich around 1500.  I forgot to pay after eating and was pursued by the boy!

I had a little wander around Hama.  It was super-busy, nothing like the quiet town that it was even back in 2010.  But I later realised that I had been here on a Friday back then, when shops were closed.

There was only one other traveller at the hotel, being Ant from Hong Kong works for the United Nations.  Fortunately, we were able to agree on a trip of common interest and confirmed that with Abdullah.

 

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